(AP) — Millions of Shiite Muslims from around
the world are making their way this week to their sect’s holy shrines in the
Iraqi city of Karbala, a pilgrimage that is as much about community as it is
about religion.
The shrines are of two revered
Shiite imams: Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, and his
half-brother Abbas. The annual commemoration, called Arbaeen, draws more
pilgrims each year — according to Iraqi figures — than the hajj in Saudi
Arabia, a pilgrimage required once in a lifetime of every Muslim who can afford
it and is physically able to make it.
Pilgrims stream toward Karbala on
foot from the cities of Najaf, 45 miles away, Baghdad, 55 miles to the north,
and other places farther afield, resting along the way in tents lined with foam
mattresses and fleece blankets.
"Our fathers and our grandfathers walked to
Karbala, and God willing, our children will, too," said Karrad Karim, a
pilgrim journeying with four friends from Baghdad. They brought with them large
flags bearing devotional sayings to the Shiite saints, but little in the way of
supplies for the four-day journey.
That's because along the roads,
stalls set up by charities, mosques, and devotional groups see to it that no
traveler goes hungry. Cooks prepare vast amounts of stewed lamb, grilled fish,
fresh bread, and rice for the pilgrims, refusing payment for the meals.
The pilgrimage, known in Arabic as
the Ziara, marks the 40th day of mourning of the anniversary of Hussein's 7th
century death at the hands of the Muslim Umayyad forces in the Battle of
Karbala, during the tumultuous first century of Islam's history.
Hussein was seen by his followers
as the rightful heir of the prophet's legacy. When he refused to pledge
allegiance to the Umayyad caliphate, he was killed in the battle, cementing the
schism between Sunni and Shiite Islam. Hussein's half-brother Abbas was also
killed in the battle.
Modern depictions of Hussein,
stitched on banners displayed along the pilgrimage, show him with blood on his
brow and bearing a Christ-like countenance.
But the mood is not all somber
among the pilgrims. Spirits were high as travelers approached Karbala, and
improved further with generous helpings of dates and tea.
"This is a walk to heaven," said Alaa Dadi,
who was making his way with his wife and three children.
Sunnis outnumber Shiites by a wide
margin among the world's estimated 1.5 billion Muslims, and Shiite rituals are
far less known. The hajj is considered one of the five pillars of Islam, and an
obligation for all Muslims – Sunni and Shiite. The Ziara is voluntary and holds
little significance in Sunni tradition.
In recent years, the Iraqi
government says Karbala received 10 to 20 million visitors during the event,
with many Shiite pilgrims coming from Iraq. No figures have yet been released
for 2018.
This year's pilgrimage is the
first since Iraq's government declared victory over the Islamic State group in
January, but the threat of insurgent attacks still lingers. The militant group
has deliberately targeted Shiites in Iraq and elsewhere to destabilize the
region. Thousands of Iraqi soldiers and special police forces have been
deployed to protect the pilgrims along the routes.
Iranian religious affairs official
Hussein Zulfighari said 1.7 million Iranians had already crossed into Iraq for
the pilgrimage, and predicted the number could reach 2 million by the event's
climax on Oct. 30. Mr. Zulfighari, quoted in Iran's Fars news agency, said the
visitors include 50,000 Afghan Shiites living in Iran.
Muhammad Thiqawi, from Iran, said
he was initially hesitant about making the journey this year. A month ago,
protesters in Iraq's southern city of Basra burned down Iran's Consulate over
what they felt was the country's undue influence over Iraqi affairs. Iran, the
region's Shiite power, exerts considerable sway over Iraqi politics through its
support for Shiite parties and government-backed militias.
But, he said, "the Iraqis
hosted us in their homes and welcomed us. They said Iranians are our friends
and guests of Hussein." On his child's stroller, he pinned a poster of the
two countries' flags.
Ali al-Alizi traveled from Qatif,
a Shiite province in eastern Saudi Arabia that has been the target of
repression by the Sunni monarchy.
Lord Maurice Glasman, a Labour
peer in Britain's House of Lords who was raised Jewish, said he came at the
encouragement of his Iraqi friends to better understand the country that
defeated the Islamic State group's insurgency.
"Politically, ethically, spiritually, it has
been an extremely elevated visit," said Mr. Glasman, who arrived in
Karbala on Oct. 28, after walking several days from Najaf.
The hajj saw 2.4 million pilgrims
this year but Saudi authorities regulate the tradition tightly, driving up
costs for pilgrims and depriving it of some of the spontaneity seen in the
Ziara. For many Muslims who cannot afford to go on the hajj or cannot get the
Saudi visa, the Ziara is a satisfying alternative.
"The hajj is required by God, but the Ziara is
voluntary," said Sayyid Abdelamir Mousawi. "Those who go do it out of
love."